The FAQ's on Installation of Ceramic Tile

Answer:
The longer a slab cures and the longer the moisture is retained, the harder it is; however, the criteria before installing tile is that the bulk of the moisture should have evaporated from the slab before installation. To determine how much moisture is in the slab, you can tape a piece of resilient tile on all sides, leave it overnight and see how much moisture has accumulated underneath it the next morning. Some moisture is not detrimental, but excessive moisture may cause efflorescence (covered in question #9) and the resulting lack of bond.

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Answer:
Whenever there are cracks in the slab other than hair check, spider webbing surface cracks, it has to be addressed before installing the tile or you will more than likely have cracks in the tile. There are several ways of doing this, but the best is a crack isolation membrane. The joint should be thoroughly cleaned and filled with a resilient filling agent.

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Answer:
Lippage is referring to the variance in plain from one piece of tile to the other and becomes particularly objectionable when it occurs in a corner. The most common reason for lippage is that the substrate has not met TCA standards and the tile contractor has failed to point this out prior to installation. The larger the piece of tile, the more difficult it is to compensate for an uneven floor surface. This then becomes a particular problem on canterlevered floors. Although ANSI does not deal with lippage, it would be desirable to keep it within 1/32 (approximately the thickness of one dime), with 1/16 (2/dimes) as maximum.

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Answer:
The best method to check a slab for curing agents or other coatings is to apply Muratic acid to a cleaned area. If the acid "bubbles," the mortar should bond. If acid does not "bubble," remove the surface of the slab by scarifying with: a H.D. machine sander, bush hammering, sandblasting or a "shot blasted" (a self contained abrasive recirculating machine). Check again with acid to make sure a bond can be obtained.

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Answer:
There is absolutely no problem to do this providing you are aware of several potential areas of concern. The TCA's 'Handbook for Ceramic Tile Installation' clearly covers with illustrations each step and these potential problem areas. As a quick review: (1) The most important issue to decide is the soundness of the substrate (existing tile) you are going over. If it is solid and tight, your finished application will be the same. If it is loose, so will be your finished application, thus it should be torn out. (2) All soap scum, wax, coatings, oil, etc. must be removed from existing tile. A mechanical abrasion with a Carborundum disk followed by a clean water wash is recommended. (3) The TCA Handbook does not illustrate the best method for covering existing 'conventional trim' returns (1/4 Rds, A-106) over cement mortar. Use an A-4200 in reverse and cut to flat side to the exact depth, usually about 1". To cover surface returns, use "conventional trim."

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Answer:
a. Do not use white body tile (such as our 4-1/4 x 4-1/4 product). Our 3x3 product (Accentials) and glazed floor tile products may be used on exterior walls in freeze/thaw climates.
b. Never.
c. Glazed tile on an impervious porcelain body only. (Our clear glazed Keystone tile is acceptable.)

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Answer:
These are broken down in great detail in the TCA Handbook.
a. Interior spacing recommended every 24 to 36 feet in both directions.
Exterior spacing recommended every 12 to 16 feet.

b. Whenever there is a change of material in the substrate; where ceramic tile abuts perimeter walls, columns, etc.; where it passes over control, slab expansion, seismic, cold, structural joints.

c. Depending on spacing of expansion joints; EX: 5/8" at 24 feet, 3/8" at 12 feet, etc.

d. There are a variety of suitable sealant materials including; silicone, urethane, polysulfide available in matching colors to the regular grout. Sealants used in traffic areas require a Shore A hardness of 35 or greater.

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Answer:
The width of the joint dictates not only whether the grout should be sanded or not, but also the gradation of the sand. As a rule of thumb: (1) 1/8" or less - non-sanded grout, (2) over 1/8" to 1/2" - fine-sanded grout, (3) over 1/2" to 3/4" - coarse-sanded (Quarry) grout, (4) over 3/4" to 1" - (for Handcrafted tile) special mix of 2 to 3 parts coarse sand to one part cement. Always follow the recommendation of the grout manufacturer.

NOTE: Sand is added to cement to increase strength and reduce shrinkage; however, the amount and coarseness of the sand is reduced as the grout joint narrows.

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Answer:
Although a great variety of glazed tiles are used for counter tops, manufacturers specifically recommend only specific tiles. These are usually double glazed like American Olean's "Crystaltex" or glazes fired at higher temperatures, such as glazes on vitreous and porcelain bodies. High-gloss glazes are not recommended because they will scratch under normal kitchen counter top use. Many owners will select these 'high-gloss' tiles for counter tops even though they are told "they will scratch," because they like the look and do not intend to use their kitchen on a regular basis. American Olean includes specific references in our catalog for each product. Refer to American Olean's Product Catalog.

Vanity Tops: Most tiles are all right to use, except the softest glazes, because of less abuse.

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Answer:
Ceramic tile can be installed on multi-storied structures and provide 'Sound-Rated' floor systems when used with a large variety approved underlayments. These underlayments come in a large variety of materials and thickness, it depends on what value of STC (Sound Transmission Class) and IIC (Impact Insulation Class) is desired. The higher the value, the less sound transmission. The TCA Handbook offers several options.

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